Metal to ORMUS Using the Peroxide
Method
by Barry Carter and MB
Created
MB has
converted 25 metals into a white powder (ORMUS) form using the Peroxide Method.
(Don Nance and I have written up our notes on the Peroxide Method at:
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/wgpowder.htm
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/research/goldto-m.htm
)
These
metals are:
|
1 |
Antimony |
|
2 |
Bismuth |
|
3 |
Chromium |
|
4 |
Cobalt |
|
5 |
Copper |
|
6 |
Gold |
|
7 |
Iridium |
|
8 |
Iron |
|
9 |
Lead |
|
10 |
Mercury |
|
11 |
Molybdenum |
|
12 |
Neodymium
|
|
13 |
Nickel |
|
14 |
Niobium |
|
15 |
Osmium |
|
16 |
Palladium |
|
17 |
Platinum |
|
18 |
Rhodium |
|
19 |
Ruthenium |
|
20 |
Samarium |
|
21 |
Silver |
|
22 |
Tin |
|
23 |
Titanium |
|
24 |
Tungsten |
|
25 |
Vanadium |
The ORMUS
form of these elements is soluble in ethyl alcohol.
Here are some
of MB's comments on this from a couple ORMUS forums:
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
[ORMUS_SWG] HCL/H202 method with Copper - Sunlight and Acid
Dear all,
I was
reading over the weekend about a transmutation of Silver to Gold available
here:
http://www.rexresearch.com/adept/aa1agau.htm
I noticed a
line saying:
> 5) The acids were exposed to sunlight to "solarize" them. Tiffereau
>
complained that the French sun was not so effective as the Mexican
So, in good
old fashioned experimentation, I took an Erlenmeyer flask and put 500ml of HCL
in it, stoppered it well and placed it on the roof of
my house in the Australian sunlight for the whole day yesterday and retrieved
it for use in the afternoon.
Then in two
beakers, I placed some copper in each, then in one beaker I used my normal HCL
and in the other I used the "solarized"
HCL.
When I
started adding the H2O2 to each beaker, the reaction in the beaker with the
normal HCL just sat there for about 10 minutes before there was
any bubbles. In the other beaker that had the "solarized"
HCL, the reaction started within 30 seconds and was much more vigorous. I ended
up using significantly less H2O2 in the beaker with "solarized"
HCL.
I am
wondering - what would Sunlight be doing chemically to the HCL that was exposed
to the Sunlight all day?
We had a
clear day with blue skies and I put the flask up there at dawn and retrieved it
at dusk - so it got a whole day worth of Sunlight with no shade. Thankfully it's winter here, so it was not a hot day - I think we had a
high of 19DegC.
When I
started adding the NaOH to the beaker with the "Solarized" HCL, it became very hot very quickly and I
needed to proceed much slower than normal on this step.
Comments
welcomed.
Best Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date: Thu,
Subject:
[ORMUS_SWG] Re: Red Gold
The
HCL/H2O2 method for creating the Clear Gold Chloride is a very good initial
step and will create the Clear Gold Chloride as described in Step 2 of NDC's PDF file on the Red Lion.
It is a
simple shortcut and eliminates the worry of Nitric Acid. The clear gold
chloride, when precipitated using the method suggested by NDC, is the White
Lion (the White Powder of Gold). This of course assumes you have used sufficient
H2O2 to break down the gold into very small clusters. It should be pure white,
if there is any grey or black present in the precipitate, you should do the
process again.
I have
posted before on some of the little tricks I use to ensure the gold/copper/tin/silver/mercury/iron
is broken down enough. These are:
1. Place
the HCl in a sealed glass container and put it out in
the Sunlight during a clear day, from Dawn until Dusk. The "solarised" HCl will be far more
reactive and you will need to use less H2O2.
2. Place
your Food Grade 35% H2O2 in the freezer overnight. Then using a ladies silk
stocking folded many times, filter the liquid into another container. The
frozen "ice" from the H2O2 is the "filler", the liquid
which filters through is good concentrated H2O2, so be sure to wear gloves.
If you have
not broken down the gold into small enough clusters, then Step 3 in NDC's PDF will not produce the Green Lion. If you face this
and do not get the Green Lion, simply evaporate it down again to near
crystallization (IE: when you see the slow evaporation starting to form
crystals around the edge of the solution, this is enough), then top up with new
"solarised" HCl
and proceed to drip in the H2O2 again. Even when you cannot see any further
gold or precipitate, still keep dripping in the H2O2 for a period of 10 to 15
minutes. This will ensure you break down the clusters enough.
Proceed
with Step 3 of NDC's PDF as per normal.
Oh, at Step
5, trying to get the red crystals to dissolve in distilled water using only a
gentle heat, can take 5 to 7 days, be patient and do not rush it.
As a final
note, keep some of your White Lion (the pure White Precipitate done from the
HCl/H2O2 method), you may like that product more than the Red Stone. Trust me
on that one, I much prefer the White from the Red,
there is really something special and subtle about the White that the Red just
doesn't have. In my opinion, one can open a locked door using a key or a sledge
hammer, take your pick - white or red.
Best
Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
[ORMUS] Re: Metals and Toxicity
Dear Barry,
I have
found that the HCL/H2O2 method works quite well with the following metals (for
which I have done):
Chromium, Iron, Nickel, Molybdenum, Rhodium, Silver, Iridium, Platinum,
Gold, Tin and Tungsten.
It also
works, though with varying degrees of successfulness with:
Copper
(very stubborn and only works about 1 in 10 attempts)
Titanium (also
very stubborn, yet 3 in 10 attempts it works)
Niobium
(though I buy this from
Osmium (a
very difficult one to get your hands on though this supplier is able to provide
it - http://www.pm-connect.com/) This one is quite
highly reactive and great care should be taken with the addition of the H2O2,
it gets hot very quickly. However, with perseverance, its white powder will
dissolve in the di-ethyl alcohol about 1 in 8
attempts.
Mercury
(also quite a difficult one to get your hands on, though I found an old Army
disposal store that still sells the old Mercury Thermometers. Again it takes a
very long time to break down with the H2O2 and I would generally do it in very
small amounts. However, at least 1 in 3 attempts are successful at getting its
white powder to dissolve in the di-ethyl alcohol).
Ones to
steer clear of are:
Zinc,
Magnesium, all the highly reactive alkaline metals as they oxidize in the HCL
before you can even add the H2O2, Lead, Bismuth, Antimony and Selenium. The
Selenium comes as an oxide, I have been unable to source any other way of
getting it.
The
Platinum oxide (a black powder) that can be purchased from the electroplating
site I listed on Ormus_SWG List,
is a good one to start practicing with. The reason being is that the black
specs are easy to see, so you know if you have managed the conversion correctly
or not or if you need to start over again. It is also not too expensive
considering that it is pure platinum oxide and the resultant product is quite
strong, so those who really want to "feel" their Ormus will recognize
they have made a good one :) - IE: ingesting a good platinum ormus will
definitely make you feel very "spacey" (I suggest you be seated - hehe).
Best
Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
Re: [ORMUS_SWG]What is Red Gold and Its Benefits
The process
can be done in just 4 hours, but I cheat :)
AuCl3 can
be purchased from the Electroplating supplier that I posted a while ago. It is
a clear liquid and is highly refined and suitable for 24K gold plating in a
cyanide based solution.
Anyway, I
also buy H2O2 in 3% form from a Pharmacist. This is surgical grade H2O2 and is
designed to be used on abrasions. Anyway, I take the 500ml bottle of H2O2 and
freeze it, then pour out what doesn't freeze, which is usually about 20ml of
liquid.
I then take
the purchased AuCl3 (about 100ml) and over a period of 1.5 hours, drop in the
H2O2 while stirring with a Pyrex tube. It will start to bubble after only a minute
or two and continue to bubble as the H2O2 is added. I add all the 20ml of the
H2O2 that I got from the freezing process, then let it stand for 10-15mins
(until no more bubbles form). Then I simply precipitate it out with a good
quality sodium hydroxide by taking 30mins to dropper in the NaOH
solution until the pH reaches 10.5. Then just let it sit there for about 30mins
as the white precipitate settles. Separate the precipitate and wash in good
quality spring water. Total time = 4 hours.
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
Re: [ORMUS_SWG]What is Red Gold and Its Benefits
Dear NDC,
Yes, my
apologies.
I use
"Surgical Spirit" which is Ethyl Alcohol, C2H5OH.
Apologies for any confusion.
Best
Wishes,
MB
--- In
ORMUS_SWG@yahoogroups.com, RosyCrossOrder@... wrote:
>
> Barry
said --> MB says that all of the ORMUS state materials he
has made
from metal using the HCl/H2O2 method finish up as white
powders
that are soluble in alcohol.
>
>
Actually he said it was di-ethyl alcohol which is an
unknown
chemical
to my knowledge. He is either talking about di-ethly
ETHER or
he's
talking about ethanol (alcohol).
>
> .°.NDC.°.
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
Re: [ORMUS_SWG]What is Red Gold and Its Benefits
Dear NDC,
T'is a
shame you don't hold the sea salt precipitates with as much regard. I have been
able to refine sea salt precipitates enough using the pH rebound technique that
I have been able to electroplate out some matt-greyish
metals (in a cyanide based electroplating solution). Though
the amount comes to about 2-3grams per kilo of good salt. The Horizon
salt (http://www.horizonsalt.com/) where the crystals of the salt grow in a
pyramid shape rather than cubic, produce the most amount of matt-silverish metal upon the same procedure. Yet again it is
still aroun 3-4 grams per kilo of salt. For a salt
crystal to grow in a pyramid shape rather than cubic, suggests the predominent mineral contained within the NaCl crystals is a tetrahedronal
mineral.
Since I
generally only process about 2-3 grams of metal in a
HCl/H2O2 process, I hold my salt precipitate methods with equal regard and it
is much cheaper.
As a side
note, if I take my refined salt precipitates and put it in a sealed baking dish
on low heat for 42 days, it will double in weight, even though nothing is
added, just the slow gentle circulation. The precipitate itself turns into a
nice translucent mushy paste. For some reason, the same process done with precipiates of Copper through the HCl/H2O2 method, it does
not increase in weight.
While salt
precipitates wont rock your socks off like a well prepared metal through the
HCl/H2O2 method, it still has a nice subtle feel that is good for a breakfast
Ormus before going off on your daily tasks. It is still on the top of my list
as one of my favorites and I have it every morning without fail.
Best
Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
[ORMUS_SWG] Re: HCL/H2O2 method, advice sought
1. Take
your HCl, put it in a sealed flask and stick it out
in the sunlight from dawn to dusk. Solarized HCl seems to work much better in this procedure (still
don't really know why).
2. File
down the gold using a small metal file or metal nail file so that its fine dust. Will dissolve much more
readily.
3. I use
120ml of HCl per 2 grams of
Gold/Silver/Platinum/Copper etc. I suspect that not all the gold dissolved as
there wasn't really enough HCl for it to dissolve
into.
4. Freeze the
H2O2 and pour out what doesn't freeze. You should use less H2O2 that way and
the reaction should start much faster as you slowly dropper the concentrated
H2O2 in.
>
Solution did not bubble at first (temperature?) and then started bubbling after
5 minutes, however, within an hour bubbling stopped and more H202 doesn't start
the reaction again.
Yes, this
is quite normal for me as well, no bubbles for the first 5 minutes or so, then it starts to bubble. Though if I
freeze the H2O2 and use the part that doesn't freeze, it starts to bubble
within about 20 to 40 seconds. I usually do this at room temperature,
though Barry said to try heating it. I'm still yet to try doing it in a warm
solution, though apparently it can be faster.
When all
the metal has dissolved and you cant really see any of
the dust left, if it still bubbles as you add the H2O2, then keep going.
Usually it is a good 10 or 15 minutes after you cant see the metal anymore,
will it stop bubbling and you are done (with that step).
I'd say
your biggest issue is that you didn't have enough HCl
to begin with. I use Electroplating Grade HCl which
is apparently 70%. Pool grade is usually about 30%. If I use the pool grade, I
used twice as much, so 240ml for 2 grams of metal.
Since you
also boiled it down, you supersaturated the gold chloride, so I wouldn't expect
more gold to dissolve into it that way. Also I have heard adding a little
purified salt can help in this step, yet its not
something I do.
Let us know
how you go :)
Best
Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
[ORMUS] HCL/H2O2 process, various metals as requested by Barry
Hi there
Barry,
This is a
list of elements I have worked with using the HCL/H2O2 method. Other elements I
have worked with use different methods, which I will leave till later. I had to
dig out all my notes and summarized them over the last few weeks below in
numerical atomic weight order for easier reference. (Almost 2 years of notes in
one page)
*NOTE*
processes vary slightly as I was not always looking to make something to
consume as some cases I was more interested in any unusual properties.
Name /
Symbol / Element number
1. Titanium
(Ti) (22)
Titanium
oxide is a black powder, good to start with. Used a good amount
of H2O2 over two days before digesting with salt for 2 days and then the pH
swings. The Titanium precipitate was a grayish-white, would not dissolve
in 70% nitric acid, yet quite easily dissolved in
grain alcohol. This was then allowed to evaporate and formed small tetrahedron
shaped crystals.
2. Vanadium
(V) (23)
Vanadium Pentoxide is an orange compound. Typically the chemistry to
dissolve would be described as:
V2O5 + 6 HCl + 7 H2O -> 2 [VO(H2O)5]2+ + 4
Cl− + Cl2
The
chlorine gas is significant and was reduced outside into the solution. The
Vanadium precipitate had a tinge of blood red and looked quite strange, so was set aside for later.
3. Chromium
(Cr) (24)
Chrome
metal was the starting material. HCL has little effect on Chrome, so the H2O2
was liberally added. After digesting with salt, the solution turned a beautiful
emerald green and looked ready. However, the digestion should have perhaps been
done longer as it took over 20 pH swings before obtaining a lustrous waxy white
precipitate (it took ages...)
4. Iron
(Fe) (26)
Iron oxide
is black so I started with Magnetite (FeO3). This seemed to be a good choice as
it dissolved quite readily and I was able to use a good amount of H2O2 and get
vigorous bubbling. I spent quite some time with the H2O2 to get the solution a nice reddish brown. Digestion with salt again took quite
some time and eventually turned smoky orange. Performed several pH swings and
eventually got a dull white precipitate.
5. Cobalt
(Co) (27)
Cobalt
Oxide (Co3O4) is used often in glass manufacturing and was the starting
material. The HCL was solarised and warm for the
process and dissolved the Cobalt Oxide quite readily with H2O2. The resultant
precipitate was a creamy white after the first pH swing and becomes brighter
after each swing thereafter. Was set aside for later
processing.
6. Nickel
(Ni) (28)
Nickel is
used often in Electroplating, so the solid metal was the starting material.
Nickel does not easily dissolve in HCL, so was a very good material to perform
the H2O2 method with, though it took quite a lot of H2O2 to etch all the Nickel
into solution The resultant precipitate has a slight tinge of deep
"sapphire" blue throughout.
7. Copper
(Cu) (29)
Copper
metal is easy to obtain and was the starting material. This one is perhaps the
most stubborn of all metals to work with. Copper oxide is often green and this
is what usually results when doing the process. The H2O2 process works with a
success rate of about 1 in 8 attempts (for me). The good result is a bright white
precipitate with a slightly waxy sheen.
8. Niobium
(Nb) (41)
Niobium
oxide is used in the manufacture of camera lenses. Nb2O5 was the starting
material and does not easily dissolve in HCL so was quite good to use, yet very
expensive to purchase. I had a feeling this would be a good material for the protovoltaic cell since it is also used in ceramic
capacitors. The resultant precipitate was very light and almost fluorescent
white. Did not exhibit much protovoltaic
activity after crystalization.
9. Molybdenum
(Mo) (42)
Back to the
drawing board on this one, the material I started with did not contain
molybdenum... I used silver Australian coins after someone told me they were
molybdenum, but found out they are actually 28% copper, 72% nickel. However,
the coins were still very easy to convert and produced an almost pure white
precipitate that I do quite enjoy. I still do this one often as it is easy, the metal is everywhere and has a "vitality"
effect which is difficult to explain. If someone was to start learning the
HCL/H2O2 process, I can say that starting with coins is about the easiest of
them all. (Which is strange as copper is the hardest)
10.
Ruthenium (Ru) (44)
Ruthenium
Oxide is black and used for electrolytics in resistors
and was the starting material. It does not dissolve in HCL so is a good
material to use with this process. Took significant amounts of H2O2 and
produced a lot of chlorine gas. Eventually, the precipitate came out with a
slight tinge of pink.
11. Rhodium
(Rh) (45)
Rhodium
Oxide is black and was the starting material. Took quite a bit of H2O2 before
it even started to react and etch away. I continued with the H2O2 over a period
of 3 days and brought the pH up slowly to obtain a slightly grey precipitate.
Removed the solution over the precipitate and added fresh HCL, then went at it
more with H2O2 until I obtained a slightly smoky solution. Then brought the pH
up slowly and the precipitate was a bright white. Performed 7 pH swings,
digesting with salt between each swing and the white precipitate became quite
fluorescent bright white (almost glows).
12.
Palladium (Pd) (46)
Palladium
Oxide is black and was the starting material. Does not dissolve in HCL and took
a lot of H2O2 to get it etching into the solution. In fact this one took almost
2 weeks of adding H2O2 before it all dissolved. Eventually
obtained a fluorescent white precipitate that has a slight waxy look and takes
a very long time to settle on pH swings. The precipitate likes to rise
to the top of the solution quite often and takes a lot of time to settle.
13. Silver
(Ag) (47)
I have used
both silver metal and the black silver oxide in this process. This is a good
one to start with if learning the HCL/H2O2 procedure as it is easy to do without
drawbacks very often. The precipitate needs to be a bright white, if any black
spots are in there, start again. The Ormus silver has a very slight tinge of
yellow.
14. Tin (Sn) (50)
Tin metal
does slightly dissolve in HCL and etches quite quickly with H2O2. The first
precipitate is a bright white, but after 7 pH swings and digesting with salt,
it ends up with a sky blue tinge.
15.
Antimony (Sb) (51)
Difficult
to work with and took alot of H2O2 to get it all
etched into the solution. Digested with salt for several days
before it turned a smoky yellow and then brought the pH up and had black spots
all throughout. Removed precipitate and used fresh solarised
HCL and more H2O2 over a period of a week or more to really break it up. Then digested with salt on a moderate heat for a few days before it
turned
16.
Neodymium (Nd) (60)
Neodymium
oxide is easy to obtain and is a white powder. This was the starting material
which slightly dissolved in HCL and etches quickly with the H2O2. Kept up the
H2O2 over a period of 3 days to be sure it was fully broken up into solution as
it is difficult to tell. Digested with a little salt at 37Deg C for a period of
7 days upon which it turned a nice violet color. After 12 or more pH swings and
digesting with salt at 37Deg for a day between each swing, I ended up with a
fluorescent white precipitate that had a slight tinge of violet still.
17.
Samarium (Sm) (62)
Obtained
the Samarium oxide from: http://www.advancedmaterials.us/62R-0801.htm It had a slight pink tinge to the white powder when it
arrived, but seemed quite good for the HCL/H2O2 process. After the first salt
digestion it turned a nice bluish color and eventually after the pH swings and
salt digestion, I obtained a white precipitate with an aqua tinge.
18.
Tungsten (W) (74)
Tungsten
Oxide is a yellowish powder used for pigments in ceramics and was easily
obtained. After the HCL/H2O2 over a period of several hours the solution turned
a light green. Digested with salt for a period of 3 hours at 37Deg upon which a
light orange color formed. pH was raised slowly over
several hours and formed a white precipitate with a slight red tinge. Did not proceed further.
19. Iridium
(Ir) (77)
Easy to
obtain the metal and does not dissolve well in strong solarised
HCL. Took a fair amount of H2O2 at the beginning, but less was needed as time progressed
to keep the etching going. Once it was all dissolved, the solution was a smoky
light grey. Digested with salt for about 5 days without much
change to the look of the solution. pH was
raised and a white precipitate formed. I separated this precipitate, dissolved
as much as I could in diethyl ether and allowed to evaporate and crystallize.
The crystals were strange star like rods sticking out in all directions. Put
aside for further reduction at a later time.
20.
Platinum (Pt) (78)
White gold,
quite easy to obtain but also quite expensive, so only a small amount was done.
The process went like clock work and really only took a few days to complete.
Ended up with a very small amount of precipitate that was fluorescent white
with what appears to be a waxy coating until you touch it, after which the
sheen seems to dull.
21. Gold
(Au) (79)
Quite easy
to obtain gold metal and this one is also quite easy to work with. It does take
quite a bit more H2O2 than I was expecting to get it all to dissolve and after
the first digestion with salt, turned a nice emerald green. The resulting
precipitate is bright fluorescent white.
22. Lead (Pb) (82)
Horrible
stuff, do not recommend it to anyone. It took a lot of work over a long period
of time to eventually obtain a very small amount of precipitate that still had
a slightly yellow tinge. I dissolved in diethyl ether and allowed the alcohol
to evaporate leaving small white crystals that formed in a dual tetrahedron.
Quite a bit of the precipitate did not dissolve in the alcohol, so I put it
aside for later investigation.
23. Bismuth
(Bi) (83)
Bismuth is
unique and seems to work quite well with the HCL/H2O2 process. The metal was
not too difficult to obtain and does not dissolve in HCL, so etching away with
the H2O2 took a long time but ended up being a nice greenish yellow solution. Then after digesting with salt for about a week, turned almost
bright orange like Fanta. Raised up the pH
slowly and the precipitate came out with a slight tinge of red, but after about
8 pH swings and digesting with salt at 37Deg for a day between each pH swing,
it eventually came out bright white. Bismuth is a very strong diamagnetic
material, but after this process, it did not seem to be effected at all by
magnetic fields, it even had a slight attraction, which was not expected at
all.
That is all
I could find in my notes for now and there is still quite a lot to be done.
Best
Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
[ORMUS] Re: Ramblings part deux, deux
> Was
there any way to tell if the powder that refilled the bottle
> was
more silver? Was it a mixture of other ormus? Ormi???
Untested.
It was originally a teaspoon of silver ormus made using the HCL/H2O2 method
(with a minor modification I do myself). It was placed in a glass, wrapped in alfoil with a rubber band holding the alfoil
over the top. Mostly as I wanted to come back to it at a later time and I
thought it would be a reasonable storage for it.
It still self-replenishes
- not from the bottom or the top, but from the sides of the glass and grows
inwards to the center. I can say it is a white powder, looks almost identical
to the silver I put in there originally, it was a brand new glass - that it
self-fills is not something I can explain other than saying the original Tamashii theory of gravity could be correct.
> Have
you tried to see if copper ormus would replenish?
I generally
do not make copper Ormus, its very difficult / time consuming task to complete.
Out of all the metals or metal oxides I have worked on, copper is still one of
the most difficult with this process. So the answer is basically, No.
> would
it speed up the replenishing process to set up a Bo Long
> type air pump with diffuser stone pumping air into the
bottle?
In my
experience, I would say No. Ormus likes to "hide
out in tight places" or "collect in places that are well
shielded". You could probably put a small test tube with a little Ormus,
wrapped in alfoil in the space station orbiting earth
and it would still self-refill. I do not believe it is "in the air"
but rather it becomes manifested from the "universal fluid". Be
interesting to have it tested, but since my last episode with Mass Spectrography, the company will no longer accept samples
from me (as it broke their machine and cost a lot to have it fixed).
Best
Wishes,
MB
From: MB
Date:
Subject:
[ORMUS] Sunday's Live Call
Dear all,
I thought I
was not going to have enough material for the call, but we ended up only
getting through about half of it.
What we
covered:
1. Charger:
a.
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/MB-ORMUS-Charger1.htm
b. Static
Magnetic Fields
c. Pyramid
d. Faraday
Cage / Orgone Cage /
e. Kayanite / Crystal charging
2. Crystal
Shock Method
3. Plant
Alchemy / backyard distillation
http://www.jwmt.org/v1n9/prima.html
4. A very
little at the end of the call on the Tamashii
Philosophy.
What I had
that we did not get to cover:
1. H2O2
Method with the modification I have done.
2.
Cleopatra Bath and it's benefits
3. The
process of Dew Water / Alchemists "Gur" the
universal solvent and production of the Universal stone.
4.
Philosophy of the Universal Fluid.
5.
Micro-cluster / Nano-technology and phase transition
of platonic solids and the unusual properties during the transition of platonic
solids to become the crystalline bulk of the material exhibiting SuperSolids, SuperLiquids and
Superconductivity.
6. The
(elusive) 5th Element of the Alchemists.
Thank you
to all who attended the call, I hope it wasn't too much :)
Best
Wishes,
MB